Publican

The Publican

The Publican is the latest restaurant from Chef Paul Kahan and partners. Alongside him are Chef de Cuisine Brian Huston, Sommelier Eduard Seitan, beer expert Michael McAvena, and partner and experienced restaurateur Brian Alexander. Their new restaurant is located in the Fulton Market District at 837 W. Fulton Market Street in Chicago. The Publican is a beer-centric restaurant focused on simply prepared fresh and seasonal ingredients.

The simply laid out menu is focused around the six categories: fish, aged ham, meat, vegetables, cheese and dessert. The menu descriptions reflect the latest trend of farm-to-table menus offering the names and locations of the farms and artisans along with the harvesting locations of their seafood. Menu items include five different types of fresh oysters, pork country ribs with polenta and caraway-mint slaw, and farm chicken with summer sausage and frites. The focus is definitely on the quality of the ingredients rather than over-the-top presentations.

The surroundings are a sight to see – a European beer hall design from award winning architect Thomas Schlesser and the project manager and restaurant partner Donnie Madia. The design offers a comfortable and warm atmosphere perfect for the restaurant’s quality menu items and extensive beer and wine menus from Sommelier Eduard Seitan and beer expert Michael McAvena. The magnificent atmosphere, inviting menu, affordable and perfectly selected beer and wine menus has certainly made The Publican just as successful and popular as Blackbird and Avec.

The Publican has been the talk of the town since it opened. Here is what David Tamarkin of Time Out Chicago had to say about trying their brunch, “… which means now there’s absolutely, positively no excuse for not checking the place out—not even the recession. Waffles with maple butter; fresh ricotta with roasted pineapple and hazelnuts; soft-boiled eggs with toast points and wood-fired eggs with harissa, gouda and grilled bread can all be had for under $10 here.”

The following recipe from Chef de Cuisine Brian Huston offers a wonderfully devilish decadence called Bacon Candy. While unfortunately it won’t be on the menu due to its infeasibility in the restaurant, it is definitely worth a try and offers a glimpse into the type of menu items you will see at this Chicago restaurant.

Bacon Candy

Ingredients
3 lbs. pork belly or slab bacon, cut in 1-1/2 inch cubes Kosher salt Fresh-ground black pepper A few sprigs of thyme 5-10 cloves of garlic (optional) 1 bottle dry red wine (preferably from the Loire valley, if you care about these things, but any decent red will do)

Equipment
A large skillet or sauté pan An ovenproof roasting dish or Dutch oven, just large enough to fit the cubes in a single layer Metal tongs

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 350F.
2. Place your skillet over medium heat. While the skillet warms, rub the cubes of belly all over with salt and pepper. Add them to the heated skillet in batches, being careful not to crowd, browning all sides before transferring the cubes to your roasting pan.
3. When all the cubes are browned and nestled in the pan, stud with the garlic cloves and thyme sprigs and add wine to halfway up the sides of the cubes. Add water just to cover meat and roast, uncovered, for 60 minutes — the liquid should evaporate quickly, and the pork should be cooking in its own rendered fat. Every 8-10 minutes, use the tongs to turn the cubes over in the pan.
4. When the rillons are finished, pour off any accumulated liquid (you can reserve it if you like — it's delicious) and either slice the rillons or serve them whole.

Huston says that “you can share them with your friends, if you are able to demonstrate that much selfless behavior.”